Jimmy Webb and John Glassberg both sent the brilliant problem The New Zero! I remember going to So Ill years ago when Jason Kehl and everyone was trying this sick undone line. Back in the day they nicknamed it Fat Sloper Action (a name that aptly describes this problem.)
Of course I was tending to my frozen hands and feet when Jimmy sent then I missed John doing it. But I got lots of falling shots! This is why I don't care about being paid for this stuff. No pressure but the self-induced.
All in all it was a great weekend! We did some amazing problems and kept our attitudes optimistic.
A big thanks must go out to my old friends Dave and Dan Chancellor for the special beta and directions. Buy their holds! So Ill Holds
A couple of photos of Jimmy and Brion (funny faces)
Okay,
The Vagina took me SO long to finally send! At first it was strength issues, next tendon troubles, finally summer heat + 'skeeters wore me out at the top moves.
Here's my deal:
I open my personal bouldering ethics to you all, and you guys hook me up with your opinions as to how far "out there" I am.
I don't enjoy working boulder problems in stages. I tried the topout section to the Vagina for the first time in th"hot summer" (six years after my first attempts.)
I have this skewed view of rock climbing. One that is posed as a challenge and an endevour that must ALWAYS be from the ground up. I truly enjoy the small successes of trying hard boulder problems always from the start holds and working my way move-by-move. Usually I know where I'm going on a problem. However I avoid grabbing holds before I can climb to them. I know I may waste some potential sends on short climbing trips but I like it that way! It gives me a reason to visit cool areas again and again!
You guys gotta tell me what you think of my "crazy" ethics.
I can elaborate more if you all want...
...And if you feel I'm full of it, ask around.
So...the Rocktown video of me finally sending a week ago, here ya go:
The Vagina
hope ya like it
Well, see ya later.
-SG
8 comments:
You going to be around rocktown at all the week of 3/15ish?? I think I am coming down although I may not be climbing.
Cool that you finally got some Vagina.
Good climbing with ya this past weekend. Lemme know if ya get up to boone anytime soon.
Scotty, nice send man...I'm headed there tonight thru sunday and that damn problem is always on my list. Maybe your send will be the inspiration I need!!! Come out and meet up with us!!! Kendo has my #.
Matt
Hey guys! Thanks for the comments!
narc- I'm not sure if I'll be getting out that week because I have a big state exam on the 28th so I have a bit of studying to do. But, I think I could make it for a day or so. We'll be in touch.
Awesome Porn! Love the ending!
Man, that was one good weekend!! we need more of those!
I can't believe how steep this rig is in person! Nice work.
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